Routeburn Track - Shelter to Falls

Off we go!

location: Routeburn Track in the Fiordland National Park
distance: 7.2 miles
elevation gain:

description: in comparison to our last two big, multi-day hikes, we proved exceptionally well-prepared for the three-day hike along the Routeburn Track. throughout the summer we made a concerted effort to undertake lengthy and strenuous day hikes, pushing ourselves more than in previous years and taking advantage of the mountain trails of San Bernardino County.

after a great stop in Queenstown, we set out for the eastern trailhead of the Routeburn Track, located past the end of sealed roads past Glenorchy. we left Queenstown after breakfast and enjoyed the twisty road along Lake Wakatipu, arriving in Glenorchy around 9:30 to collect a lockbox from the people we engaged to relocate our rental car to the Divide end of the track. a bit more driving - now off the sealed road through pastureland filled with weeks-old lambs tottering around and exploring in close proximity to their mothers.

the parking lot was fairly full for shoulder season and we saw plenty of people throughout the day, including at least one guided tour group. we secured our lockbox to the underside of the car, hoisted our packs back into their familiar positions and head off.

most of the first day was a gradual and pleasant climb up to the Routeburn Flats hut. the track mostly followed the course of the north branch of the Route Burn River, crossing via swing bridges perodically. we stopped for lunch at the Flat hut with stunning views of the valley. there was an optional side-track that explored the valley but, uncertain of what the rest of the day might hold, we didn't venture off-Track.

the two and a half kilometers from the Flats to the Falls were a steady, brutal ascent. in future, I will try to think on this climb as a reminder of the rewards of uphill climbs. we were very grateful to reach our destination - the DOC hut perched on the side of the mountain just below the actual Routeburn Falls.

we were some of the first bunking hikers to arrive for the day and claimed our desired bunks before heading to the common area in search of some warmth. neither of the two young women we found in the common area had made an attempt at starting a fire with the fuel provided - meager kindling and a heap of coal. Andy is quite adept at starting a fire with wood and made a valiant attempt at getting one going with the coal provided - to limited and under-appreciated effect. (we later learned that we were stuck with coal because brisk winds had prevented the helicopter re-supply from landing in preceding days.)  there was a fair bit of good-natured joking around the Hut about storming the guided-tour-lodge just up the hill to thaw out a bit.

a group of four college-age friends, who were hiking from the Divide end assured us that the Mackenzie Hut had plenty of wood - wood they hadn't the opportunity to enjoy as it arrived that morning. they'd also realized that their spare key was going to be locked inside their car - along with the driver's key - upon its relocation to the Shelter. but they were in delightful spirits all the same - exuberance of youth at the end of school term!

Routeburn Flats

we spent most of the afternoon drinking tea out of our handy pot/mug, reading, and writing until it was time to heat up water to make our tasty hiking food. it snowed off and on most of the afternoon and evening, clearing periodically to provide astonishing views of the valley below and mountains surrounding us. I made Andy climb up above the hut to get some panoramic views before we made dinner. we chatted a bit with a young German woman and a Canadian man at the end of his student-age work-visa; he was working his way through the Great Walks of the South Island and I confess to being a bit envious of all he'd accomplished.

after the hut talk (a somewhat rambling talk from an American that focused primarily on addressing the invasive species problem and the DOC's efforts to eradicate predators) Andy explained how to play euchre and we did our best to remember rules consistently enough to have a good time (we did, and did). when we couldn't put it off any longer, we headed for the freezing bunk room and endured a very cold and rather unpleasant night with little to no proper sleep. we were both incredibly glad for our Katmandu thermals, nestled beneath every other piece of clothing we had. but we survived the night - and fared better than some - and were up and out before any other Mackenzie-bound trampers. all those early mornings on the Camino prepared us well.

Fox Glacier

Aerial view from my parents' trip c. 2002

location: Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe in Maori) in the Southern Alps
distance: approximately 2.2 miles

description: we hadn't explicitly planned on visiting both Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, but after our experience at the first glacier, we decided to take the time to visit Fox and were rewarded for our decision. the glacier isn't easily seen from the parking lot, but the steep walls and numerous rock slides give the valley a more dramatic, rugged feel. the previous Fox carpark was buried by a rock slide several years previously and a new one constructed a bit farther up the valley.

whereas the path to Franz Josef was over the flat valley floor, the one to Fox glacier stuck more to the mountainside Fox River was historically more prone to flash flooding. additionally, rock slips are more frequent along the Fox trail as well; in several places we could see where new track had been cut after the old track had been buried. there were even several spots with dire warnings not to stop for several hundred meters -- including the last, steep climb up to the viewing area -- for rock slip danger. news articles posted on informational boards at both sites warned provided numerous examples - recent and historic - of fatal errors by tourists who didn't heed safety measures.

Ground-level view from our trip Nov 2014

the setting and dire warnings conspired to create a more impressive atmosphere at Fox. all the evidence of recent, unstable geologic activity, the glacier obscured by terrain until the top of the final climb, and the comparatively pristine terminal face make for a dramatic reveal.

because we arrived later at Fox, we didn't have the same marvelous solitude as at Franz Josef, but it there certainly weren't enough people to tarnish the experience - and a extra hands to take posed photos for us with the glacier in the background. we heard a fair few helicopters porting people up to visit the top of the glacier, as my parents did when they visited about a decade ago. it's hard to tell from their aerial photo where we stood on our visit, or determine how much glacier has been lost in the intervening years. our view from the ground up was definitely worth the extra stop after Franz Josef and extra huffing and puffing to see the glacier.

Franz Josef Glacier

location: Franz Josef Glacier (Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere in Maori) in the Southern Alps
distance: approx 4 miles

Franz Josef glacier

description: prior to this trip, Andy had never seen a glacier up close and since both the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers are readily accessible from the west coast highway on the South Island, we knew we'd have an opportunity to get a good look at them. when my parents visited New Zealand more than a decade a go, they took a helicopter to the top of the glacier for the opportunity to walk on the surface. based on our travel plans, we opted to hike to the base of the glacier from the car park.

ever keen to avoid the worst of crowds, we inquired with our hostel host as to the best time to hit the trail and, based on her recommendation, arrived about 6:30 to find ourselves the only car in the carpark. we didn't see anyone else until after we were on our return journey - solitary enjoyment of the glacier: wonderful!


the track cuts pretty straight through the glacial valley, following the course of the Waiho River at a safe distance. unlike the Fox Glacier, you can see most of Franz Josef from quite a distance; it offered great views but also illustrated how much the glacier has retreated over time. when tourists started coming to see it in the late 19th century, the glacier filled much of the valley that we spent more than 30 minutes crossing in the early 21st century. in the 20th century, even with periodic advances made due to favorable weather conditions, both Franz Josef and Fox glaciers have retreated some 2.5 kilometers.

view down the valley towards the Tasman Sea

the final few hundred meters climb steeply to afford views of the glacial face, past an ice cave that I'm sure guided and foolhardy unsupervised tourists alike explore on occasion. the end of the track was about 200 meters from the end of the glacier itself, with access restricted beyond due to changing conditions and potential instability. from up close, my overwhelming impression was that Franz Josef makes a more spectacular sight at a distance. the size of the nearby mountains somewhat dwarf the glacier, some 12 kilometers long from the neve to terminal face that we approached. moreover, the face was largely covered with rock debris, giving it a gritty appearance and making it somewhat hard to distinguish from the surrounding mountainsides.

despite the underwhelming aspects, it was very special and awe-inspiring to observe the glacier without other people milling about and without the sound of helicopters spiriting people up to the top of the glacier.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Ngauruhoe from below Soda Springs

location: Tongariro Alpine Crossing from Mangatepopo to Ketetahi carpark
distance: approximately 22 miles
highest elevation: 1886m at Red Crater

description: upwards of 80,000 trampers take on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing each year. many claim it as one of the best day hikes in New Zealand - if not the world. after waiting a day for the weather to clear, we were anxious to get out on the track. as were many others. while presumably passable during snowier seasons with crampons and proper cold-weather hiking gear, one must assume most people make the trek in "better" weather.

after a 30 minute bus ride, we set off from the Mangatepopo carpark in the company of the dozen people in our vehicle plus another busload or so from other tour operators. the first two hours or so found us wending our way up the gradually inclining, well-maintained trail like a line of ants. the glacial-carved valley of Mangatepopo has been filled in by numerous lava flows and is now covered by the limited vegetation that can survive on those flows. the low clouds and moderate temperature made this portion of the walk almost cozy and offered wonderful views, even if we couldn't see the tops of either Tongariro or its companion Ngauruhoe.

once we passed the pit stop at Soda Springs, however, the track steepened dramatically; 340 meters straight up to the South Crater. we're used to climbs and long hikes and generally keep a pretty good pace that allows us to plug ahead without stopping. as we climbed above Soda Springs, the crowds began to thin out with some people surging ahead then forced into resting 500 meters along the path. a handful of groups kept leapfrogging us, including a pair of European teenagers taking breaks for photos and to put on more appropriate footwear or headgear; and a young South American couple whose varied heights may have accounted for their stopping and starting.

view of lava flow, descending from Red Crater

once we reached the South Crater visibility came down significantly. the snow cover started shortly after leaving Soda Springs and didn't let up until well past Blue Lake on the other side of the mountain. it was easy to see how Julia DeWitt lost her way and nearly fell into a crater trying to do the crossing at night. a series of poles marks the way across the South Crater, but even with the relatively mild weather we had, it could be hard to see more than a few ahead of us. the climb out of the crater was much harder; slick and uncertain in places with gusty winds buffeting you about in exposed places. Andy came to the aid of a young Irish woman who was having the Worst Day Ever, and spotted her up the trail until we were out of the crater.

reaching the saddle brought a delightful sense of accomplishment, though the low visibility and biting wind tamped down on that a bit. we had neither the time nor the inclination (again, see: weather) to try for either summit and after a few minutes savoring the accomplishment, struck off down the steep, loose tephra to the Emerald Lakes, across the South Crater (which, technically, is a valley rather than crater, as with the South Crater) and up past Blue Lake. just beyond Blue Lake you enter the "active volcano zone" with warning signs posted prominently, though no flashing light as featured at the trailhead in Mangatepopo carpark.

vents at Te Maari crater

from the sign, the trail continues steadily downward, with views in the direction of Lake Taupo and the steaming vents of Te Maari. the track passes the now day-use-only Ketetahi shelter (damaged by the Te Maari eruption of 2012), over flows from that eruption, through podocarp-hardwood forest and along a stream polluted with minerals from Ketetahi springs. as with other hikes, after the hours of mountain climbing, the trek through the forest seemed to go on much longer than anticipated and while we weren't tapped out like many others appeared at the carpark shelter, we were glad to sit for a spell while awaiting transport.

while making the crossing on a clearer day would have been incredible, I am very thankful that we decided to stick around and make the trek; absolutely worth it.

Lake Rotopounamu

location: Lake Rotopounamu
distance: approx 3 miles

description: one downside to hiking in shoulder seasons: weather. I planned for two nights in National Park to bookend a hike over the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but weather prevented us from completing the hike on the intended day - forecast for snow and gale force winds overnight arrived as promised and meant we wouldn't have wanted to leave in the morning anyway. fortunately, our schedule accommodated a slight delay and we adjusted plans accordingly.

while overnight and early morning weather proved inhospitable, the weather cleared up by midday - and we didn't waste the opportunity to stretch our legs on one numerous alternate hikes in the area. after lunch at a retro diner in Turangi and a trip back to Taupo to find reasonably-priced hats for our alpine crossing, we pulled off the road to go in search of Lake Rotopounamu at the foot of Mt. Pihanga.

the trek proved much more of a walk than a hike by our standards, but pleasant all the same. the track circled Lake Rotopounamu (greenstone lake) at the northwest foot of Mt Pihanga, which we caught a good view of from north of Taupo the previous day. in Maori myth, Pihanga was pursued by several suitors (also mountains) who fought for her affection; the vanquished moved away to other parts of the North Island, while victorious Tongariro remained at her side. when volcanic Tongariro smokes, it is a sign of his anger towards the last challenger for Pihanga's affection, Taranaki who now sits some 200 kilometers to the west on the edge of the island.

the weather, while gray, stayed pleasant throughout our walk. easy grade, lots of views of the lake, and very few other hikers - just a couple taking scenic shots from Ten Minute Beach. overall a pleasant substitute for a delayed alpine crossing.