Routeburn Track - Shelter to Falls

Off we go!

location: Routeburn Track in the Fiordland National Park
distance: 7.2 miles
elevation gain:

description: in comparison to our last two big, multi-day hikes, we proved exceptionally well-prepared for the three-day hike along the Routeburn Track. throughout the summer we made a concerted effort to undertake lengthy and strenuous day hikes, pushing ourselves more than in previous years and taking advantage of the mountain trails of San Bernardino County.

after a great stop in Queenstown, we set out for the eastern trailhead of the Routeburn Track, located past the end of sealed roads past Glenorchy. we left Queenstown after breakfast and enjoyed the twisty road along Lake Wakatipu, arriving in Glenorchy around 9:30 to collect a lockbox from the people we engaged to relocate our rental car to the Divide end of the track. a bit more driving - now off the sealed road through pastureland filled with weeks-old lambs tottering around and exploring in close proximity to their mothers.

the parking lot was fairly full for shoulder season and we saw plenty of people throughout the day, including at least one guided tour group. we secured our lockbox to the underside of the car, hoisted our packs back into their familiar positions and head off.

most of the first day was a gradual and pleasant climb up to the Routeburn Flats hut. the track mostly followed the course of the north branch of the Route Burn River, crossing via swing bridges perodically. we stopped for lunch at the Flat hut with stunning views of the valley. there was an optional side-track that explored the valley but, uncertain of what the rest of the day might hold, we didn't venture off-Track.

the two and a half kilometers from the Flats to the Falls were a steady, brutal ascent. in future, I will try to think on this climb as a reminder of the rewards of uphill climbs. we were very grateful to reach our destination - the DOC hut perched on the side of the mountain just below the actual Routeburn Falls.

we were some of the first bunking hikers to arrive for the day and claimed our desired bunks before heading to the common area in search of some warmth. neither of the two young women we found in the common area had made an attempt at starting a fire with the fuel provided - meager kindling and a heap of coal. Andy is quite adept at starting a fire with wood and made a valiant attempt at getting one going with the coal provided - to limited and under-appreciated effect. (we later learned that we were stuck with coal because brisk winds had prevented the helicopter re-supply from landing in preceding days.)  there was a fair bit of good-natured joking around the Hut about storming the guided-tour-lodge just up the hill to thaw out a bit.

a group of four college-age friends, who were hiking from the Divide end assured us that the Mackenzie Hut had plenty of wood - wood they hadn't the opportunity to enjoy as it arrived that morning. they'd also realized that their spare key was going to be locked inside their car - along with the driver's key - upon its relocation to the Shelter. but they were in delightful spirits all the same - exuberance of youth at the end of school term!

Routeburn Flats

we spent most of the afternoon drinking tea out of our handy pot/mug, reading, and writing until it was time to heat up water to make our tasty hiking food. it snowed off and on most of the afternoon and evening, clearing periodically to provide astonishing views of the valley below and mountains surrounding us. I made Andy climb up above the hut to get some panoramic views before we made dinner. we chatted a bit with a young German woman and a Canadian man at the end of his student-age work-visa; he was working his way through the Great Walks of the South Island and I confess to being a bit envious of all he'd accomplished.

after the hut talk (a somewhat rambling talk from an American that focused primarily on addressing the invasive species problem and the DOC's efforts to eradicate predators) Andy explained how to play euchre and we did our best to remember rules consistently enough to have a good time (we did, and did). when we couldn't put it off any longer, we headed for the freezing bunk room and endured a very cold and rather unpleasant night with little to no proper sleep. we were both incredibly glad for our Katmandu thermals, nestled beneath every other piece of clothing we had. but we survived the night - and fared better than some - and were up and out before any other Mackenzie-bound trampers. all those early mornings on the Camino prepared us well.