Cinque Terre: Riomaggiore to Manarola

location: trail 531 between Riomaggiore and Manarola
distance: 1.25 km but so much uphill
lodging: Ostello 5 Terre

sights: we left our plans for Cinque Terre a little fluid, knowing we'd probably spend our full day hiking from town to town but not much beyond that. we opted to hop off the train in Riomaggiore, rather than riding the few extra minutes to Manarola, making it easier to take in all five of the Cinque Terre during our visit. after a glass of wine on a lovely terraced cafe in Riomaggiore, we set off.

Via dell'Amore

Our flexibility was tested straight away.; the Via dell Amore - the easier coastal route between Riomaggiore and Manarola - washed out during the previous season and had not yet been restored. (We later saw it from above and no way we're people getting through; washed away with a fifty foot sheer drop to the sea.) in fact, the only section of coastal route open in all the Cinque Terre was the segment between Vernazza and Monterosso. Not a big deal in the face of our flexible hiking plans, but no small consideration, as we now faced the prospect of the steeper route to Manarola.

Those of you who know me, are aware I am do not shirk from a hiking challenge. Andy and I did lots of mountainous climbing in California and New Zealand and my pack and I are dear old friends. In fact, I can scarcely imagine doing a strenuous hike without something on my back! Even so, the hike up that first hill in Cinque Terre was a challenge. Straight up, up, up, up, up under bright Italian sunshine, with limited hydration and no proper fueling to speak of. For Rebecca, who was hiking with weight for the first time, not to mention with a pack, the ascent was even more taxing.

But, we made it! The views along the coast were stunning, if somewhat unexpected in how closely the towns were clumped together. We took a brief breather at the top, took a few silly poses, and steeled ourselves for the equally, shockingly step descent.

Descending into Manarola

 As quickly as we'd ascended on the Riomaggiore side, we descended even more quickly down into Manarola. It truly felt as if we were standing atop the town and descending a steep exterior staircase, weaving through private yards and gardens before emerging out into the upper square. Looking at the distance now, it hardly seems representative for the effort exerted. I wouldn't write off doing that hike again - and in fact, I'd probably largely prefer the inland and less-travels trails in future - but would certainly take steps to better prepare for it in advance before foolishly jumping to climb straight up the side of a terraced valley.