a year ago today, we reached Astorga -- a major crossroads on the Camino where paths from the south and east converge. it was an average-length day of about 24 kilometers and just about 35,000 steps. we'd been looking forward to our stay in Astorga pretty much since we started the trip; really, since I'd booked the five-star hotel in March or April. after 23 days on our feet, we had grand plans to make the most of the spa amenities at the Hotel Via de la Plata. except ... the Spa didn't offer services on Mondays. by adding an extra day to relax and recover in Leon (just two days prior to reaching Astorga), we'd pushed back our itinerary and arrival in Astorga and, unwittingly, denied ourselves the extra-special relaxation reward.
while certainly disappointed, Astorga and the hotel did have plenty to offer -- Roman ruins and a cathedral, kids learning to ride bikes, a city hall with mechanical figures chiming the hour (that reminded me a bit of the astronomical clocks of Prague and Olomouc), Gaudi's Palacio Episcopal, a tub and shower (though weak water pressure meant it took a while to fill the tub), bathrobes and slippers, and a veeeeeery comfortable bed.
we left Astorga well rested and well fueled for the coming days. this late in the Camino, though, beyond the worst of the physical pain (despite my probably sprained ankle that persisted through the remaining 11 days) and acclimatization, we began to wish for certain creature comforts of home that the gear we were porting just couldn't reproduce. (which is a fancy way of saying: the computer and different books.)
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